Artisanal cheesemaking remains one of the most dynamic segments of Ukraine’s food industry. Despite the war, instability, and the loss of part of production capacity, Ukrainian cheesemakers continue to develop, win international awards, and shape their own cheese culture. This was stated in an interview with AgroPortal.ua by Oksana Chernova, founder of ProCheese Academy, cheese expert, and Ukraine’s judge at the World Cheese Awards.
The market holds on despite losses
According to the expert, some farms are unable to withstand the challenges of war, energy disruptions, and financial instability. At the same time, interest in artisanal cheese has not disappeared — new producers are emerging, and small dairies are gradually becoming more stable and planning their development more consciously.
“Even in difficult conditions, people do not abandon the idea of producing artisanal cheese,” Chernova notes.
Who shapes cheese culture
While ten years ago cheese culture in Ukraine was largely set by large industrial enterprises, today small and medium-sized producers play an increasingly active role. They are more flexible, open to experimentation, and quicker to respond to market demand. At the same time, large companies, observing the craft segment, are also beginning to update their product ranges and look for new approaches.
2026 trends: craft and geography
Among the key global cheese trends, the expert highlights craft production and geographical identity. Consumers increasingly want to understand the origin of cheese — from terroir and milk to local production traditions.
“In difficult times, there is a deeper desire to explore one’s own — the taste of a place, a region, a country,” Chernova emphasizes.
This trend also stimulates the development of gastronomic tourism, where cheesemaking facilities become points of attraction for consumers.
Ukraine’s cheese map
At the end of last year, the first Cheese Map of Ukraine and a guide to recognized cheeses — participants of the World Cheese Awards and ProCheese Awards — were presented. The project is planned to be expanded further by engaging new producers and encouraging them to operate legally and systematically.
Industry challenges
Among the factors restraining the development of artisanal cheesemaking, the expert points to fragmentation among producers and divisions within the community. At the same time, growing cheese consumption and healthy competition could become key drivers of development.
“Among the restraining factors, I also see fragmentation instead of unity — a division into ‘ours’ and ‘others’. This does not help the industry grow,” Chernova notes.
Regions with potential
Currently, the leaders in artisanal cheesemaking are Zakarpattia, Lviv Region, and Kyiv Region. At the same time, Odesa and Kherson regions have significant potential, although their development is temporarily constrained by wartime factors.
Plans for 2026
The cheese community is preparing for international projects, continued participation in the World Cheese Awards, the Lviv Taste Fair, and the launch of preparations for the ProCheese Awards 2027.
Source: AgroPortal.ua
